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In Europe, heme still hasn’t been approved by regulators, so Impossible’s products don’t include it there.) (If you’re based in the US, you may have tried this one already yourself. I took a small bite of the Impossible burger, and if you ask me, the taste was a pretty good approximation of the real thing, though the texture was a bit looser and softer than beef. The special ingredient is heme protein, which is cranked out by genetically engineered microbes and sprinkled in for that meaty flavor. Founded in 2011, the company makes meat alternatives from plants. We started with a plant-based burger from Impossible Foods.

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My tasting would culminate in a sample of her company’s lab-grown Wagyu burger.

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“We’re food-safe in this house,” said Jess Krieger, founder and CEO of the cultivated-meat company Ohayo Valley, as she pulled on a pair of black plastic gloves to lay out the three burgers I was about to try.

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Could a lab-grown burger be everything I dreamed it might be? From left to right: an Impossible Foods plant-based burger, Ohayo Valley's lab-grown burger, and a beef burger. So I’m really intrigued by the promise that cultivated meat could replicate the experience of eating meat without all that climate baggage. Animal agriculture makes up nearly 15% of global greenhouse-gas emissions, and beef is a particular offender, with more emissions per gram than basically any other meat. But as a climate reporter, I’m keenly aware of the impact that eating meat has on the planet. I drink whole milk in my lattes, and I can’t turn down a hot dog at a summer cookout. And in the middle, the star of the show: a burger made with lab-grown meat. On the right, an old-fashioned beef burger. On the far left was a plant-based burger from Impossible Foods. Sitting in a booth in a hotel lobby in Brooklyn, I stared down the lineup of sliders, each on a separate bamboo plate.















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